Now I don't know the details of these photos, I just found them on our shared drive down here. But they are Russian and they are doing some sort of traverse that past the South Pole.
If you recall my post from November 14, 2009 called South Pole Traverse, you will recall we do something similar. The NSF has started a a program whereby huge, really sophisticated, really really expensive tractors drag fuel bladders and other supplies to the South Pole. It is proving to be significantly more cost effective than flying everything in.
Now look below and see how the Russians traverse the continent. Again, I don't know the details, but it's quite obvious: these guys are hardcore! No million dollar tractors for them! Who needs a big red down parka, when some worn out sweaters will do the same job?! Who needs Marlboros when you can roll your own? Who needs water when you've got vodka??? These guys are fresh out of some sort of frigid Mad Max beyond Thunderdom!
It reminds me of the story of how the US space program spent millions to develop the ballpoint pen. And the Russians just used pencils instead.
The last sunset was the first week I was here back in October. The next sunset will be in a few weeks. In the meantime the sun has been spinning around the sky in a counter-clockwise direction.
Us night workers have a time share with the sun. We wake to find it in the Northern part of the sky, although some would say all points are north down here. From there it swings around the Royal Society mountain range. In the wee hours of the 'night' it hovers over Mount Discovery, and usually finds some clouds to play hide-and-seek with. From there it schleps past Black island and White island. Come morning it hangs over an expanse of the permanent ice shelf that is as flat and white as far as the eye can see. People of the day watch the sun as it completes the loop and heads around Ross Island and Mount Erebus.
It becomes quite normal to constant daylight. That being said, I'm glad to have a dark room with no windows. One of the best parts of this job is spending so much time outside, watching the days go by.
I've felt the summer pass by. Things have gotten colder and colors have come back to the sky. They are subtle now, but when the sun is just so, you can catch some glimpses of orange, or pink or purple in the sky. This is a big deal when all you've seen for the past months has been an endless field of white, blue and grey.
Another great phenomenon has been the Fata Morgana. Not sure why the fancy term, but essentially they're mirages. And they've been happening quite a bit down here lately. A blanket of warmer air sits on the surface and stretches everything. Huge lakes can be seen where you've only seen ice before. The edges of islands stretch into huge steep cliffs. Buildings grow to seem like small skyscrapers.
The Run 13.1 miles. Packed snow on permanent ice shelf. Not too cold, cloudy, no sunshine, no wind until the last mile.
Me Out of shape, lazy. I had run a total of 13 miles in the past two months combined. Longest previous distance ever run: 5 miles.
The Result I ran the entire thing! Body fell apart, but is coming back together rather nicely. 5 bruised toes, 2 wobbly knees, 1 revived spirit. And penguins on the course... those buggers can run!
*Pics not by me. Generously shared by unofficial race photographers.
Many people wonder what I do down here for work; it's quite simple actually... I drive people where they need to go.
McMurdo Station has a fluctuating summer population of 1,000 +/-. These scientists, plumbers, Air National Guardsmen, heavy equipment operators, shovelers, cooks, etc. are constantly coming and going. They need to get around town, to their work sites, and out to the airfield.
The Shuttles Drivers There are 24 people in the Shuttles department, all brilliant individuals that I am quite fond of. Besides all being white and from the U.S., I'd say we're all quite different. But... if you had to boil us down into two groups, I think most would have to agree that us Shuttles drivers are either A) young, talented, beautiful women or B) dirty but kind old men. You all know which group I fall into.
The Vee-hicles Our fleet consists of:
Vans - Ford Econoline E-350 vans, lifted up with big snow tires
Airporters - The type that take you from the airport to the car rental office
Deltas - Old navy vehicles that are sturdy and versatile, have huge tires and are articulated in the center, so they turn on a dime
Ivan the Terra Bus - The icon of McMurdo and the largest vehicle on the continent.
The Roads In town they are gravel roads made from lava rock, dirt and dust. They were icy when I arrived but that has all melted away by now.
The road out to the airfield is a different story. From town we drive down to the beach (used in the loosest sense of the term); this is where the transition is. This is where it gets gnarly with huge cracks several feet wide and potholes with unknown depths that have been known to have seal heads pop out. And its just another 13 miles out to Pegasus airfield. Fortunately this is mostly all on the permanent ice shelf.
The Thrill The joy of my job is being outside every day, driving these great rigs, meeting amazing people, watching the weather pass and the sun circle the horizon, and watch the season progress.
And of course the driving... It's been an especially cold December according to many people that have been coming down for years. For the moment the road remains in good condition. I feel deprived. I want the real nasty conditions... it gives a driver some excitement, something to relish, something to be able to complain about. And its even more fun to do in someone else's vehicle.
Watch this video! The Road to Misery starring our very own Shuttle Bill as he crosses the transition in a Delta at one of the nastier times of the year. This film won the 2008 McMurdo Film Festival.
This was my boondoggle and it was to be on New Year's Eve 09-10.
The idea is to train all those going out in the field about how to survive. You know, dig survival trenches, start a stove, operate a HF radio, risk management theory, and a white-out scenario (Bucket heads). Joining me was our mountain guide instructor and nine other students: 3 scientist grantees, 2 janitors, 1 IT instructor, 2 firefighters, and 1 kitchen staff.
It was the most unique and sober way I've rung in a new year: sleeping on a deep ice shelf at the foot of an active volcano as the sun circles the sky all night long.
Sometimes if you're really really good, and lucky, and have the day off or it is dead at work, and there's a space available you can jump on a Pisten Bully (seldom), snowmobile (very seldom), or helicopter (extremely seldom) and go join whoever is going wherever out in the field to do whatever. Below are some pics of dive-tending a few miles off-base.
Oh, the things we do to entertain ourselves... like running a 5k race. In Antarctica. In a clown suit.
This is not just the makings of a twisted joke; it's what actually went down Thanksgiving Saturday. Over a hundred people gathered to race the annual 5k Turkey Trot here at McMurdo. It was cold and windy, but that didn't stop us.
The winner was a Kiwi named Trotter (no joke) from the New Zealand base just over the way. I was proud to come in First in Clowns. I also gained the title of Last in Clowns. I was a happy clown, I was a sad clown...
Most meals are taken at the Galley. This dining hall is in the main building in town and serves meals at the regular times we’re all accustomed to, but also smaller meals throughout the day and night to accommodate all the hungry stomachs that are working 24/7 on the base. There are also smaller dining facilities out at the Ice Runway and other local project sites for those who work remotely.
There is a decent variety of food, much better than I would have expected, and usually always something to suit your appetite. They have set themed meals, such as Wednesday Mexican Lunch, which some people really seem to live for; as for me, I never keep track of the schedule and enjoy the surprise.
No matter how you look at it, the food is institutional, which means a lot of canned food. And powdered milk, it’s all powdered milk. Due to the remoteness of the location and the fact that the bulk of the food arrives once a year on a ship, there’s a lot of stuff that is passed its use-by-date. In fact, I think every packaged good I have seen is expired. Don’t get me wrong, its all still good, but I’m glad I don’t have to see when the frozen meats were packaged!
Freshies One thing that is great and everyone on base gets excited about- Freshies! There is an understated buzz and everyone seems to know when a C-17 is coming in from Christchurch with a palette or two of fresh fruits and veggies and other perishables. This year the freshies budget has been boosted from $150k to $250k, so its quite abundant, but I've heard that in years past it could get quite ugly.
Frosty Boy And the other excitable thing about dining here is Frosty Boy. This soft-serve ice cream machine is the most popular piece of machinery down here, and when he is broken everyone seems to know about it and no one is happy about it. Strange phenomenon, but I guess it goes to show that it’s the small things in life that are the most important sometimes.
Anyone who knows me knows that I am quite flexible and that I can eat anything, so I’m not too phased about what they serve. The only things that really get to me are a) that you never really get a choice beyond the choices you see in front of you, and b) nothing is ever really really good. Christchurch and the real world are a long way off, and I’m not pining for anything in particular now, but one of the greatest pleasures of returning will be to my tastebuds.
